On this page:
- Bike locks
- Bicycle identification and the police
- Bicycle insurance
- Bicycle lighting
- Bicycle helmets
- Child carriers
- Cycling in the rain
- Be seen and heard on your bike
Each year police receive reports of thousands of bicycle thefts. How many are stolen and not reported is unknown.
At some time you will have to leave your bike unattended. There are many things you can do to reduce the chance of it being stolen. The first is to buy a lock.
It takes about one second to steal a bike without a lock. It may only be a matter of ten seconds to steal a bicycle with a poor quality lock. A good lock will delay a thief too long and they will go away and steal an easier bike instead. As a rule of thumb, if you aren’t within handy reach of your bike, then lock it, preferably to an immovable object. Remember that a thief on your bike is a lot faster than you are on foot. Don’t choose a quiet side street – a thief is less likely to try to circumvent your lock or remove parts if the bike is visible to passers-by.
The security of a padlock is generally defined by how well it resists a forceful attack. Locks are usually opened by force rather than finesse. However, some of the cheapest combination locks are easily unpicked.
Any padlock with an unhardened shackle can be cut with an ordinary hacksaw. Boltcutter resistance is determined largely by the thickness of the shackle, as well as shackle material and hardening technique. The thicker the shackle the more work and/or the bigger the boltcutters needed.
These vary from very cheap, thin and ineffective chains which could be broken by a hefty tug on the locked bike, through to heavy duty case-hardened alloy steel chains with welded links.particulars etc. Record these now and keep them in a safe place at home. This information will help the police identify your bike if it should be recovered, as is often the case with stolen bikes. Pedal Power ACT has a printed form to record details of your bike. A good photograph is also an idea. Have your neighbourhood watch member assist with engraving your drivers licence number on the frame; the number prefixed by the letter A to indicate an ACT licence.
The most common cable is the 1.8 metre long, five millimetre thick, plastic covered self-coiling cable usually sold with a key or combination padlock. These can be cut easily with boltcutters and, with a bit of work, by sidecutters (like pliers).
Ten millimetre thick cables, usually 1.2 metres long, can be bought with integrated lock, with a separate padlock, or individually. To cut through these thicker cables takes a much more determined effort by a thief.
U-locks are the most secure bicycle locking system commonly available. They are expensive (but not relative to the cost of replacing your bicycle) and quite heavy but are impervious to bolt cutters, hacksaws, drills, picking, prying, smashing or just about anything short of an oxy-torch. These locks are made of through-hardened steel alloys and are vinyl coated to protect the bike frame. Some U-lock manufacturers offer a cash guarantee against theft using forceful means.
All U-locks are easy to use. They are even easier to use if a carrying bracket is also fitted to your bicycle. Bear in mind that this convenience makes for greater use and hence greater protection for your bike. The lock is an extra load on your bicycle, but it takes a load off your mind, particularly if your bike travels mainly in urban areas where theft rates are higher. Their only drawback is that they are less flexible in use – you have a lesser choice of objects to which to lock your bike than with a cable.
Bicycle identification and the police
If your bicycle is stolen then report the theft to the local police. They will want to know details such as brand, model, frame serial number, colour, accessories, component particulars etc. Record these now and keep them in a safe place at home. This information will help the police identify your bike if it should be recovered, as is often the case with stolen bikes. Pedal Power ACT has a printed form to record details of your bike. A good photograph is also an idea. Have your neighbourhood watch member assist with engraving your drivers licence number on the frame; the number prefixed by the letter A to indicate an ACT licence.
Most home contents insurance policies cover bicycles at home, but not elsewhere. There are some insurance companies which offer bicycle insurance, though usually it is fairly expensive, while other companies will offer an extended policy. As the policies differ between companies, it is best that you read the fine print and have your bike recorded on your policy. Insurance is payable yearly. A good lock will last forever.
Bicycle lights are essential if you are travelling at dusk or at night – not just so you can see, but so that you can be seen. There are two basic forms of bicycle lighting: dynamo lights and battery lights.
- cheap to run
- continuously available – always on your bike
- easy to fit with high powered halogen or krypton globes
- good power output and low drag with Dynapower type.
- dynamos often slip in wet weather, reducing output when you need it most
- poor output at low speeds (halogen globes help) and none at all when stationary
- high speeds can blow globes (but most halogen head – lights incorporate some form of voltage protection, or you can use a regulator
- some systems have excessive drag and can wear tyres.
Dynamo headlights can give good light output. You may need to pay some attention to balancing the current requirements of the front and rear lights as they both use the same generator and one can pull the other down.
Battery powered lights
Standard battery powered lights are cheaper to get going than a dynamo system.
- battery lights provide a steady continuous light under all conditions, making them especially good as a tail light when you are stopped at an intersection
- some types can be readily removed from the bike for safe keeping, or for swapping to another bike
- the light can be used off the bike – when camping or fixing a puncture, for example.
- batteries need replacing regularly and give little indication of how much life is left in them
- ease of removal means they are easily stolen if you don’t remove them
- cheaper models may have inadequate mountings which can foul wheels or make it difficult to get the headlight to illuminate the road ahead.
Various forms of rechargeable batteries are available, including gel cells and nickel cadmiums. These are expensive, and require a battery charger. However, the cost may well be worth it for the long battery life and high power outputs available if you are regularly riding long distances at night.
Regardless of what sort of lighting you use, make sure that your tail-light has a parabolic reflector behind the bulb to increase its visibility. And remember, a light is only any use if it is turned on!
Refer to Pedal Power ACT’s position statement on bike safety and the wearing of bicycle helmets when riding.
Child carriers should be attached to the rear for best weight distribution. The most stable carriers are those which sit low over the rear axle. If the child’s weight is carried too high, the bike becomes top heavy and unstable.
For safety, a child seat must have a high back, sides and footrests, preferably moulded in one piece. The seat must also have a seat belt and wheel guards. Shoulder straps should be fitted to provide maximum protection.If your bike seat has coil springs add guards to protect small fingers.
Remember, the best child carrier is no safer than the bike to which it is fitted, and the safety of the child depends on the skill and competence of the adult rider. Don’t forget that the child as well as the rider needs a helmet.
Practice riding your bike with a weight in the child carrier to get used to holding the bike upright. The extra weight of a child on the back makes it hard to steer and harder to pedal. Always dress the child warmly – sitting on a moving bike without pedalling can get very cold. And don’t forget your passenger when mounting and dismounting.
Cycling in the rain
In traffic, rain means danger:
- drivers can’t see you
- your brakes won’t work so well
- a dynamo will slip, reducing the brightness of your lights
- wet surfaces are slippery and cause dazzle
- you’ll probably be in a hurry to get out of the rain.
So take it easy and concentrate on your riding. If you do ride in the rain you will need rain-gear to keep you warm if not dry. Rain-gear should be comfortable and well ventilated – you will be working hard inside it and the sweat needs to get out somewhere. It should be spacious enough to allow you to move freely and to take it on and off readily, but not so big as to blow about in the wind. Make sure your rain-gear is brightly coloured – yellow is best, red tends to look black at night. Reflective stripes can greatly increase your visibility.
Your bicycle will need extra maintenance. Rain washes oil out of the chain, and road grime will ruin bearings and chains quickly. Consider a chain cover and hub gears if you are going to make a habit of riding in the wet. Aluminium rims provide better wet weather breaking, though stopping distances can still be double those in dry weather. Synthetic brake blocks can improve performance, particularly on steel rims, though aluminium rims will still be better.
Be seen and heard on your bike
Dress in plain bright colours. Yellow, light green and orange are best. Avoid red because it is hard to judge its distance and at night-time it looks black. Ideally, one glance by a car driver should be enough to tell that:
- you are a cyclist
- how far away you are.
Don’t hug the kerb or parked cars. You will be seen better, see better, and have a better margin for error if you are a metre out from the kerb. You will have a chance to avoid opening car doors. bumpy edges, broken glass and unpredictable pedestrians and dogs.
Give clear signals when stopping, changing lanes, or turning. Don’t be hesitant – motorists are more likely to treat you as another vehicle (which you are) if you behave like one.
Reflectors are essential for dusk and night riding and two are required on all bikes: white on front and red at the rear. Reflectors that move are very visible – on your pedals to be seen from the front and back. and in the wheels so you can be seen clearly from the sides. Reflective tape on your wrists. ankles and jacket all help you to be seen and avoided.
A bell can be useful. particularly on the cycleways where blind corners and tunnels abound.