Grade: M - X
Distance: 384km one way
Road Conditions:
Route:
Maps:
Starting Point: Vienna
Description:
Hungary is a country of strong contrasts, from mercedes taxis in the city to women hoeing barefoot in the fields. Cottages that have no running water have satellite dishes on the roof. Change is coming, from the west, but rural Hungary with its dedication to the soil survived communism and will take its time to change.
Enjoy 7 days cycling between two capitals, Vienna and Budapest, taking in the scenic Danube River all the way.
We didn't know if it was possible. We had asked in Australia, in England, in Germany, and in Austria. We left Vienna still not knowing. But there is a wonderful cycle path on its way to Hainburg, near the border of Austria and Slovakia. It is worth going on just for the bike ride and then catch the train back to Vienna. The train will take bikes. Start from the main bridge in WIEN, cycle east on the boulevard next to the Danube (DONAU) Canal until you come to the 2 x 360o cycle ramp going up to the bridge to cross the Danube Canal, go down the other specially built cycle ramp veering left all the way down, then head east again. You will now be cycling on a strip of land down the middle of the great Danube river, go under the next bridge and then turn left onto the cycle way bridge to pedal to the north bank of the Danube. Head east again and you are on your way, follow the small green DONAURADWEG signs. You will already have left the city behind and the feeling of being in the country is great. The cycle way is tarsealed, about 2 metres wide and no traffic is allowed, it goes straight, straight through a forest area, it has been built up, probably to act as a flood berm for the river. It is 25km to ORTH, you need to leave the cycle path and detour 2km if you wish to see it. It might be useful for a food stop, either here or ECHARTSAU 8km further on will be the only possibilities all day. Closer to HAINBURG the path is gravel but it still goes straight on.
It was in Hainburg that at last we were able to buy a map and it was such a relief to find a cycle way marked all the way to Budapest. It was published in 1994. This showed there was a way to get to Hungary without going through Slovakia (for which we didn't have visas). Hurrah! We set off jubilantly! We had to follow the map very carefully as the roads were not signposted very well, we travelled on country roads and through fields until we reached the Austrian/Hungary border. At the border there were several change offices and we made a phone call home in case we couldn't use the phones in Hungary. There was a new freeway used by the cars while the old road was used for trucks and buses. We cyclists had to use the truck lane and were waved through (even though we had visas).
Our map showed a side road starting from the end of the truck lane which would be quietest. Cycles were not allowed on the freeway anyway. This quiet road led us to our first Hungarian village and to our first ice cream stand. These ice cream places were to become common place at the front of a private house or in their garage, they sold only ice creams and drinks, no food. This was also our first taste of Hungarian prices, such a relief from Austria. cola for 50c, ice cream for 30c. Our next task was to find a room, but there were plenty of signs for ZIMMER and we only had to pay $20 for a double in a private bed and breakfast house. Our hosts made us feel welcome despite speaking no English.
The next morning we left the city of MOSONMAGYAROVA quickly behind us and were pleased to be on country lanes again, level riding, fields of crops on either side, rural countryside. Our wonderful map showed us where to turn to avoid the busy highways. We decided on a nice hotel (PANSIO) for tonight at only $30, including breakfast. The next day was an easy 54km ride to TATA, plenty of road signs, some undulations, just enough to add some interest, passed through some small villages. I graded them by the number of churches. They were mostly one-church towns and Tata was a five-church town. The villages had a basic food shop, a fruit stand, some ice cream places, but no bakeries as we had had in Austria. The buildings were in need of repair and paint, the footpaths were cracked, things looked drab, the people wore peasant clothes and the children stared at our modern bikes. The fields were planted with corn, cereal grains, and occasionally tulips and poppies. In Tata we were able to buy a phone card, coca cola and espresso coffee.
The following day we headed out of town, and then up a hill, grade 10% said our map. Our first hill and we were not up to it so got off and walked, around a bend, another hill, a quaint village, then a glorious downhill to the Danube river. Turning right we were now on a busy highway, road no.11. As we didn't want to go back into the hills again we stuck with it and found that the drivers were all very considerate and gave us a wide berth. We arrived in Eszergon early afternoon and found a nice zimmer, more like an apartment, second floor with balcony, kitchen, bathroom, and T.V. for $20. So booked in for 2 nights.
By following the river we found a way out of town avoiding the hill with the castle walls. Following road 11 again, there was no bike path but the cars are not frequent and the drivers careful. The riding remains very flat as you parallel the river and enjoy wide views of this region. Not much in the way of food shops, maybe an ice cream or fruit stand. From VISEGRAD it was even more scenic as we were very close to the river with the hills coming right down on our right. There is a ferry crossing about 2km further on, hard to spot, but a workman on the road pointed it out to us. The ferry took us to Kisoroszi on Szentendre island, which we cycled along on a much quieter road, definitely worth going that way. Stopped at a small store at Talitotfalu for bread, cheese and drinks. Just before Szigetmonostor we turned right for the ferry crossing off the island. Then there is a bike path on the left to bypass the town of Szentendre and you are heading for the last part of the ride into Budapest.
As Budapest is very expensive on accommodation, and vacancies can be difficult to find, it is worth considering staying in Szentendre and commuting from there. It is only 27km and it is on a train line so you can catch a train back Go to the station at Batthyany-Ter, and bikes are allowed on. .
From Szentendre there are bike signs, however, some are in disrepair and some are missing. The bike path too has not been miantained. We went through one section where the grass on either side had grown 5 feet high and lots of high prickly plants had to be dodged. Our map showed us how to get onto Margit Island, a really beautiful island were cars are banned and connected right to the centre of Budapest by a bridge. There are many bridges spanning the river Danube between Buda and Pest, each unique in character and in views of Parliament, the Royal Palace, and other monumental buildings that neatly line the shores. Lock up your bike and catch the train to Vigado Ter. This is the Pest Kurzo, or boulevard. It is very pleasant with stalls, souvenirs, shops and a McDonald's along the wharfs where the cruise ships dock.
Hydrofoils and ferries can bring you back to Vienna. If you are taking a train, check carefully which line takes bikes and bring your bike to the baggage department a few hours in advance. It is wise to learn some of the language - kerekpar, koszonom, poggyasfeladas, langos, kave, narancs, egy pohar vorosbor bort kerek
Annemarie and Rod Driver